31 October 2013

Prevailing wind

There is a distinctive change in landscape at the Tropic of Capricorn. South of the line everything becomes civilised again, or maybe be it just seems that way because it's stopped being so very hot.

This part of the country has a richer history than towns like Karratha, which was established 30 odd years ago to support the mining industry, and feels contrived and soulless.

This is wheat and sheep country. On the coast the onshore prevailing wind has distorted every tree between Kalbarri and Jurien Bay. If ever I went looking for how a tree bends in the wind, then I've found it.






30 October 2013

Anorexic on the inside, on the outside signs of being a cake enthusiast

It's a funny thing arriving at a place that is apparently "beautiful, you'll love it". At Coral Bay we were promised a beautiful beach, warm turquoise water, a small place with just a bakery and grocery store.
Turns out there is a good deal more than that, including two large caravan parks, a liberal sprinkling of young foreign backpackers all of whom are skinny, tanned and beautiful, and arrogant and thoroughly annoying. And children! It was a mystery why they were there, despite being mid week term time. They should all be locked up every day in classrooms and allowed no holidays, ever. That'll teach'm.

It's also a funny thing being forced to overhear other people's conversations. The loud old Brit couple who looked like they should be in a resort in Spain had several chats with family, loudly, to whom it seemed important to be told "you're on speakerphone" at regular intervals. I'll never meet these people attached to the voices on the end of the phone, but I feel I know them well.

In reality the beach was small, the water was cool, there was a vaguely rotting smell at the waters edge which may well have been from the dead fish bobbing in the shallows. The caravan park was built on sand, and the formula for sand plus camping equals sand in tent, and though it didn't rain, at 100 per cent humidity everything was dripping wet by morning, and the formula for wet plus sand equals two pissed off travelers.

Coral Bay. It leaves a bad aftertaste, somewhat like a badly executed espresso, of which I have had too much experience of late.




28 October 2013

Afternoon delight

I started the day communing with a white peacock, a camel, and a giant cow with horns. I ended it surveying 10,000 year old petroglyphs carved on eons old rock at Burrup Peninsular. What a day!
The biggest discovery yet is what a little gem of a place Dampier is. Sure the place was built for the mining industry and there is a very large LNG plant here among other mining shenanigans. But the place is beautiful, that classic red rocks and turquoise water that is synonymous with the west coast. It also helps that the place is not as burny hot as it has been further north...praise the sweet baby jesus...









27 October 2013

The long and straight of it

These long straight roads will eventually do my head in. And I'm not even driving. L. probably went mad days ago and I just never noticed, too busy scratching my bites and wondering where the fuck I'm getting my next coffee fix from...there's a lot of instant out this way.

We hit the 10,000km mark this morning on the road south of Broome, then the gps died. Christ, how are we going to find our way home now?

At Sandfire Roadhouse for the night. Their eftpos is down, and we've spent all our cash. Goodtimes!





26 October 2013

Goddam

There's a reason people don't have much to say about Broome.
It's hot, humid. For a place that purports to having a strong multicultural mix it's remarkably white (says the foodie gagging for some good Asian food... denied).

Still, we're on the west coast proper now, and will be for a couple of thousand kilometres. Should be enough time for me to get photos of the goddam sun setting over the goddam sea.










25 October 2013

Tenting, or, reasons why not to

Some observations on living in a tent.

Getting in and out of the damn thing results in unexpected chiropractic adjustments.

No matter how fine the mesh, bugs and specifically mozzies get in- through the door! - as we clamber in and out. Not good waking up to see a blood bloated bastard on the ceiling, basically rubbing it's hands together in glee at the long night's harvest. The scratching begins immediately.

Ants are the secret rulers of the world. There are millions of ant hills EVERYWHERE. Whether we get a camping spot on grass or dusty dirt, we have ants to contend with. They crawl everywhere trying on the quiet takeover.

When the sun is up, so are we. The eastern flank of Western Australia is fucked up - sorry, that should read is placed in a difficult position in relation to the change in time zones from state to state. Daylight, this morning began at 4.30.

Today I am wearing the grumpy pants. We only have the one pair to share, so if anyone wants to chat with L. you'll find him in a chipper mood.



24 October 2013

In flagrante

Boab trees everywhere in the north western corner of the country. They are magical and comical and the favourite place for people to carve their name into.

Rocky escarpments shoulder up against the Victoria river and everywhere I look its priceless.
Overcast skies, a sprinkle of rain, then blazing sunshine usher us into Kununurra. We're in Western Australia! A new time zone and every state further from the east coast a slower pace of life. But then, it is rudely hot and sticky.

Captured burning bush in flagrante.













23 October 2013

It's not you, it's me

O Darwin, I tried. I had low expectations, I was prepared to overlook your faults, be beguiled by your isolation. You messed with my head, made it hard to walk your sweltering streets. Even your locals have fought the hard fight and lost, weary, beyond pretending to care. Your tropical demeanor is too challenging for all but the thick skinned and the alcoholic. I had planned to stay with you for 2 nights, I'm fleeing after 1. I'm leaving you for Kakadu. It's not you, it's me.

Oh, and Kakadu National Park, fuck you and your $25 per person entry fee. A fee for the care and protection of the "world heritage area". Think I'll leave that in the caring hands of the uranium and tin mines thanks very much.






21 October 2013

Wet one

Ahhh. Haha. Darwin! City of... hotels! 'cause that's where we're staying for two whole nights. It's hot and a bucket load of humid and a pleasant change from the hot dry centre, 9 per cent humidity at its worst. Everything is lush and green again.

The orange beast is getting a new rear tyre.




20 October 2013

Riding north in the Territory

Northwards to Darwin has begun and in the inimitable L. style it's "let's get there as fast as we can". But in this heat I don't really want to be hanging about either.

The roads are straight but throw the odd curve ball in the form of 'willy willies'. These are invisible mini tornadoes brought about by wind and heat. They toss the bike from side to side across the road reminding us of our precarious balance between life and death.

The curious thing about road kill is that it can always be smelt but not necessarily seen. But I did see a poor dead cow on the side of the road inflated like a balloon ready to pop...








18 October 2013

The Alice

Sunshine paradise, desert dreams
Excellent cafes, we went to both of them
Rocky vistas, friendly people
Vibrant alternative community